We'll have a foster puppy, Sabrina, coming to us in about two weeks! She currently weighs in at about 2.5 pounds and is 7 weeks old. Isn't she a cutie? Even though she'll attend our puppy classes three times a week, I thought it would be fun to take her to another Austin dog training school for puppy class. I'd get to experience puppy classes from a client point-of-view and she'd get even more socialization (which we all know is the key to raising a great puppy!). When I went searching for a good class, I was surprised at how hard it was to find one!
I know a good trainer down South so I can travel to her if I need to, but I wanted to find one up closer to Central Austin, where I'm located. Here are the problems I ran into (and a little bit about why I think they're problems):
Private training was the only option offered. I ran into this one a lot! Apparently many of the dog trainers in Austin are only offering puppy training in your home. Many even touted this as a selling point (fewer distractions for your puppy or easier for you since you don't have to load the puppy into the car). To me, this makes no sense at all. If you understand puppy development, you know that a puppy needs to be exposed to new sights, smells, sounds, people, and other animals in a safe environment at a young age. Puppy classes should include opportunities to interact with others, explore new textures or obstacles, and listen to different sounds. Of course, we also teach some basic manners in our puppy classes (like Sit, Come, and Leave-It), but a primary focus of puppy classes is to socialize your puppy! Classes at home do none of this for me!
The class was for people only. This setup has the same pitfalls as the private puppy training option. No opportunity for socialization and experiencing the world that my puppy has to live in!
The website didn't tell me anything about who would be teaching the classes. A couple of the dog training places that did offer group puppy classes didn't offer any information about the teacher that would be holding the class. I want to be able to check out the teachers, see who they are, what their education consists of, what their experience level is, and what their training methodologies are. I'm not signing my puppy up for any classes without knowing who is teaching the class!
Many didn't offer puppy training at all! Puppies can learn so much in such a short period of time. I want a dog training school that understands this and can help me capitalize on it!
Some classes included 6 month old adolescents with 10 week old puppies. Well, here's one where you need to call and do your homework. The crucial thing here is to find out if the 6 month old adolescents are going to be allowed to play with the younger puppies. Remember, a 10 week old puppy shouldn't play with an adolescent - it's a recipe for rough play manners, poor social skills, and an overwhelmed puppy! If they split the class into appropriate ages for play, I might consider attending.
Puppy classes were taught at a local park. When you take your young puppy out to a puppy class, they won't be fully vaccinated yet. Because of this, you're really trying to balance the risk of being exposed to a disease like Parvo with the risk that your puppy may develop serious behavior problems (leading to rehoming or euthanasia) if the puppy is not well-socialized at an appropriate age. Although as a canine behavior consultant that deals with aggression and anxiety I err on the side of socialization at an early age, I always recommend being smart about that socialization. For example, we sanitize our training center with Trifectant before each puppy class (Trifectant kills Parvo, Distemper, Hepatitis, and more). I also recommend skipping the dog park or pet stores until your puppy is older. For these reasons, I'm going to cross classes held in parks off of my list - I don't know if the dogs that were there earlier in the day were healthy and vaccinated and I'm not taking a chance on it!
Well, it looks like Sabrina and I will likely drive South to the trainer I know down there and she'll do puppy classes with me at our Austin Dog Training School. I'm skipping the rest of them for now!
Cara, Buddy's Chance, LLC, Austin Dog Training, Behavior, and Dog Daycare
Here is a question I received in a recent comment to the blog so I thought I'd post the answer here:
"Hi Cara,
My wife and I have a 7 week old boxer/bullmastiff mix (we picked him up earlier this week). He was one of the smaller in the litter and was not one of the stronger feeders according to the breeder.
He has been a joy so far but today when my wife took him into the vet they gave him a rawhide bone. When they took away he began to growl aggressively, protecting the bone.
The vet said that to correct this behavior we need to put him in a submissive position and let him know who is the boss.
However, after doing some reading I'm getting mixed messages. Some articles suggest that taking the bone away and putting the puppy in a subordinate position will only make him more aggressive in the future as he will be in constant fear that his food/bone will be taken away.
What approach should we take? Any insights?
Thanks a million... Peter"
Hello, Peter:
Your puppy is Resource Guarding, which, although it should not go untreated, is not uncommon in dogs. One study showed that 20% of dogs either growled or snapped while in possession of toys, food, or valued objects. (Lindsay, Handbook vol 3, 2005, at page 416). Dogs may also guard an owner (after all, you are a HUGE resource for them) or a place, like a bed or couch.
Contrary to popular - and unfortunately dangerously misguided - belief, there is very little correlation to dominance or status. (Mech 1999; Lindsay,2005). Treating this problem with confrontation or competition between the owner and the dog is, I believe, dangerous for the owner and ineffective since it merely confirms that you are a challenger for resources and you should be defended against.
Since your puppy is exhibiting this behavior at a very young age, I recommend contacting a trainer or certified dog behavior consultant (you can find one at www.IAABC.org). In the meantime, you should prevent further incidents by not giving your dog rawhides or bones until the behavior consultant has taught you how to work with your puppy on this issue (we don't want your dog practicing this behavior - practice makes perfect!).
I would also educate yourself as much as possible on this so that you can be an active participant in your dog's treatment. The best resource I can recommend for doing this is a book called Mine! by Jean Donaldson. This will give you excellent understanding of the nature of this problem and of the most up-to-date treatment methods we have.
Please let me know if you have other questions!
Cara, Austin Dog Trainer